MARI'S TRAVELS WITH HER CAMERA

Category: Europe – Mediterranean

Spain, Italy, P:ortugal & France

  • The Palio, Siena, and Horse Deaths

    The famous Siena Palio is under attack from politicians and animal activists who feel that too many horses are dying on the streets of ancient towns as horse racing in Italian streets continues to attract crowds.

    Scene of the Palio, Piazza del Campo

    The famous Palio in Siena which is staged on July 2nd and August 16th each year in the beautiful medieval Piazza del Campo has been pitting jockeys from different neighbourhoods against one another, since the middle of the 17th century.  Amid pageantry and crowds dressed up for the occasion, horses ridden by ten colourfully dressed bareback jockeys, earlier chosen from Siena’s 17 quarters, gallop three times in two minutes around the Piazza del Campo, during which they lash both their rivals and their horses with whips made from bull penises.

    Spectacle without the Horse Racing at Siena’s Palio

    For those who want to avoid the actual horse racing but who would like to see a little of the pageantry, go to Siena a few weeks before.  During the lead-up to the main event, and especially at the weekends, the neighbourhood support groups march through the streets and alleys of the town, narrowly avoiding confrontations with each other through luck more than route savvy.  These groups are magnificently dressed in medieval costumes as they strut through the town, accompanied by their bands and sundry followers.  The core group can be composed of the very elderly to the very young, all staunch members of one particular group, although I never saw any women marching.

    If by chance two groups should meet, an exchange of insults is par for the course with the occasional brandishing of swords.  Worse for the onlooker is the discordance of two bands playing different local anthems!

    Siena in Tuscany, near Florence and Pisa

    There is accommodation around the square with balconies from which to view the racing, or there is seating on certain balconies rented out for those willing to pay a premium, but this needs to be booked up early.

    Siena is a magnificent town, it rivals Florence in many ways, and is easily reached by train or coach from Pisa to which most of the airlines fly these days.  It is also within easy reach of Florence and could be the centre of a Tuscany touring holiday giving you access to a wealth of medieval hillside towns as well as the better known artistic centres.  And when in the area, do visit the magnificent little hamlet of Civita di Bagnoregio just a few miles away.  It has a population of only ten people as it was dying at one point but efforts are being made to restore the glorious medieval properties some dating from the Etruscan period.

    I shall be returning this year, not for the Palio, but to enjoy the Piazza del Campo where it seems all Italian life is lived, to revel in the beauty of the town, and to eat some truly fabulous food.

    Siena Tourist Office

  • Back from Rioja and Catching Up.

    Been a long, been a long, been a long time.  Anyone remember those words from the old song?

    I’ve been busy over the last few months trying to work for a living and juggle social life which has made me neglect my blog.  I blame my computer really, as the many ways it distracts me from doing essential jobs are too numerous to mention.  Especially when it comes to playing with photographs, resizing, cropping, changing aspects, etc.  My biggest problem is not being able to resist trying them in different styles – just for my own amusement, of course – and I can waste a good few hours doing this.  But hey ho! here I am again.

    Logroño

    Bar in Logroño, capital of Rioja Region

    Since I last blogged I’ve been to the Rioja Wine Festival in Spain where the celebrations were absolutely fabulous.  Tapas in the bars from 7 in the evening until well into the early hours of the morning, drinking some fabulous wines that I’d never tried before and when it wasn’t a tapas evening, sampling superb food in great restaurants, two of which stand out particularly.

    Rich, Red, Rioja

    1.   Restaurant La Venta Moncalvillo, a country restaurant about 12 miles outside Longroño. Since opening in 1997 this restaurant has grown from a modest little place to one of the most important restaurants in the region.  The two owners, brothers Carlos and Ignacio Echapresto do everything between them from the wine buying to the organization of the seasonal menus. A dish of wild mushroom sliced so thinly as to be almost transparent and served with the best olive oil and a sprinkling of chives makes a perfect starter, especially when followed by Ham Ibérico liced just so wrapped round the white asparagus that Spain specialises in.

    Display of Coloured Corks at Taberna Herrerias, Logroño

    2.   Taberna Herrerias, Logroño
    In the old area of Logroño stands the Taberna Herrerias (a name that means Blacksmiths Tavern),on the street of the same name.  It is a 16th century palace sympathetically renovated without losing any of its ancient charm and now a restaurant serving delicious fresh, locally produced food,. The wines come from all over the world, but naturally, the locally produced Rioja is very much to the fore, especially the top quality Riojas that are sometimes difficult to source.

    Logroño, Rioja’s capital, is an amazing city and one I hadn’t previously visited.  Accessible from the port of Bilbao which we arrived at and from where we hired car, we reached Logroño in just over two hours easy driving.  I met some people who had flown there, via Madrid, which they described as an easy trip.

    Balloon over Vineyards of Rioja
    Of the many experiences in and around Rioja, I treasure most the early morning balloon flight over the vineyards, flying up and into the clouds and watching the morning sun come up and cast the balloon’s shadow on the same white clouds.  Looking down on the toy cars and the dolls’ houses and experiencing the eerie silence as we drifted in space sharing a breakfast glass of champagne, was something I shall remember for the rest of my life.  I’ve done other balloon flights, but this one I can only describe as magical.
    Museum of Vineculture

    A visit to what must be one of the best Museums ever, the Dinastía Vivanco Bodegas Museo del Vino set in the heart of the wine area of Alberite in La Rioja, should be on everyone’s list of things to do in Rioja.  Located right next to the Vivanco winery from which it takes its name, in the town of Briones, it was built to “give back to wine what wine has given to us” in the words of its founder Pedro Vivanco Paracuellos. It was Senor Vivanco’s passion for collecting everything to do with wine that led him to open this magnificent museum, created to showcase every aspect of his collection.

    Overlooking vineyards and the town of Briones, the Museum covers everything from ancient wine making to wine tasting guiding the visitor through ceramics, brass utensils and even a “smell experience” where the smells associated with wines can be experimented with.  Truly the most enjoyable museum I have ever visited.

    There were wine tastings, trips to a thermal spa, horse riding, visiting an old monastery, and always, eating.  As a week-end trip, or a short break, this undiscovered town has everything, plus some of the best wines you will ever sample.

    I think of Longroño now, as one of the places I must return to a.s.a.p.

  • Spanish Travels – Navarra and Galicia

    When I first started this blog, I had intended to post weekly, but somehow work caught up with me and I had to postpone much that I wanted to do. I confess also that I’ve been enjoying the lovely weather, spending time in the garden pretending to be caring for the flowers and vegetables, but really, just pottering. Vigo, Spain

    In between times I’ve been travelling in Spain for work, writing about the wondereful Province of Navarre which is seldom visited by tourists and that of Galicia. With regard to Navarre, tourists do visit but most of them are walkers because the area’s hills and mountains, rustic hotels and great food and wine (and the secret – cider) make it very worthwhile.
    Part of the famous Route of St. James to Campostela de Santiago passes through Navarre and it was humbling to walk just a few kilometres along the road that sees pilgrims walk 15-20 miles per day for up to 30 days. Next year is the big celebration of the walk and Santiago is gearing up for a massive influx of tourists. I’m toying with the idea of doing part of the walk but I fear I may not have the stamina.
     Lots-of-ponies-on-the-mount

    Galicia was a great contrast to Navarre. Spain’s northern coastal area is visited mainly by the Spanish happy to leave the southern Costas to the rest of Europe. I would hate to spoil it for them but I have to say that I plan to go back as it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited in Spain, unspoiled by high-rises and bars and restaurants serving “chips like at home” and “mama’s apple pie”. Instead we had steamed mussels, scallops, oysters, langoustines, prawns and every type of fish imaginable, including sole, turbot, sea bass and hake.

    Garden-of-Hotel-Escudos-Loo
    Hotel Escudos

    Although neither province sees a lot of foreign tourists, there are a couple of Michelin recommended restaurants with food and prices that will astound those used to paying a small fortune in such establishments. Vigo in Galicia also has a superb 5* Hotel, The Escudos, located just outside the town and overlooking the bay. There are beautiful gardens and a 200 year old camellia tree (in full blossom when I was there last week) and a few steps lead from the garden down to the beach.

     Vigo Bay, Spain
    I returned from Galicia only two days ago and the temperature then was still in the mid-twenties, something I hadn’t reckoned on when I decided on the area. I had packed mainly autumn clothes, never imaginging I would be sitting in the main square at 2.30 in the morning in tee-shirt.
    Crabs and Giant Prawns
    Now back in the UK with dark nights and rain lashing the windows, I shall settle down to working from my notes and uploading some more articles on http://www.suite101.com/ about my travels. Next week sees the World Travel Market at Excel in London where I shall spend a few days renewing acquaintances with friends from around the globe and finding out what different countries are planning for visitors for next year.
    If any earth-shattering news comes my way, it will be in my next blog.
    Till then …..